Alright guys, I moved back to Wyoming, and quickly realized that stiff and low was not the way to go. Not up here at least, the roads are (literally) like paved rally courses. Not even kidding.

I have the Megan Racing Track Series coilovers. Good setup for only ~$1000. Not EXTREMELY stiff at max setting, but certainly enough to eliminate most if not all body roll. Also quite compliant when softened up a bit. Glad I have them, and I’d recommend them if you’re looking into buying a set of coilovers.

So, I decided I might as well take advantage of the adjustability of coilovers, raise my ride height, and soften the dampers a bit. Believe it or not, the most useful information I found on these particular coilovers came from a Honda forum

Tools Needed:
Jack (scissor jacks FTMFL)
21mm Socket (six points don’t slip! twelve points can) and breaker bar, or…
4-way with a 21mm side
Spanner wrenches (these should come with your coilovers)
Sharpie (or other permanent marker)

That’s it, all you need. Oh, and a bit of muscle, you wanna tighten these things down, being part of your suspension, they will wanna come a bit loose unless you tighten all the nuts down good. Might also use a torque wrench to tighten down the wheels, but I don’t have one at the moment, so I had to make due with the 4-way.

1) Break torque on lugs.

2) Jack up car. Easy enough, this is a Supra, you’ve probably done it a thousand times by now

3) Remove lugnuts and wheel. Set those aside for now

4) Grab those spanner wrenches. You’ll see THREE gear-shaped nuts below the spring. Mark the position of EACH nut with that sharpie, this will help you adjust each corner/side evenly. Here’s where it gets tricky. I’ll explain the things you can do with those three nuts.

-To adjust ride height: The bottom one must be loosened. The top two must be tight against eachother. To RAISE your ride height, turn the TOP nut (just below the spring seat) COUNTER-clockwise. To LOWER your ride height, turn the TOP nut (again, the one just below the spring seat) CLOCKWISE. The spring will spin while you are doing this, however, it should keep the same preload setting, and should not compress or decompress. If it does, you’re doing it wrong… Depending on wheels/tires, the amount of turns you make will affect how much you adjust the height.

For my particular application, I loosened that bottom nut, and turned the top nut counter-clockwise EIGHT times. See why you wanna mark those nuts? Helps you keep track of how many rotations you made so you can balance the other side. This raised my ride height about an inch overall. Now I no longer scrape going over dips, bumps, sharp turns, etc…

-To adjust spring preload: The bottom nut must be tightened. The middle nut must be loosened. Now take those spanner wrenches, and turn that top nut. If you want to INCREASE spring preload (stiffer ride), turn the top nut counter-clockwise. If you want to DECREASE spring load, turn the top nut clockwise.

Keep in mind, adjusting the spring preload WILL affect your ride height, although not as drastically as adjusting height properly. It will, however, affect ride quality. Remember, stiff isn’t ALWAYS a good thing, balance is important.

-To adjust dampening (how stiff the shocks are): This one is easy. On top of the shock towers, there are knobs that you can turn. Clockwise to increase dampening, counter-clockwise to decrease it, done. It really is that easy. On the Megan Track series, there are 32 levels of dampening available.

For my setup, being that I live in an area with roads that are usually questionable at best, and there’s almost ALWAYS construction somewhere, I have adjusted my ride height and dampening levels to accommodate said conditions. My ride height is approximately an inch below stock in front (give or take), about an inch and a half below stock in the rear, and with the dampers set at level 9 (1-32, lower the number, stiffer the damper). It has a nice, level stance, I can go over speed bumps and dips without fear of scraping my lip, and the ride quality is much alike my friend Dave’s 2009 Corolla XRS. Not too soft, not to harsh, just about right I think

While I was at it, I removed my front lip, and did my best to repair the damage done from all the previous scraping. Bolted everything back up, and straightened things out a bit. Looks a LOT better now

Now I need to learn how to corner weight this thing

Any questions, feel free to PM me!